🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.